This last fortnight has had it's highs and lows. A brief recount might help explain.
On Saturday 22 November I gave a talk at the ANU's Environment and Sustainability Centre about all things farming sustainably related. I think the talk went quite well, except that I forgot to warn Fiona that I can speak under wet cement and I went over time as a result.
Also on Saturday I attended my eldest nephews wedding, the first of the 'next generation' to tie the knot. A handsome couple, an appropriate wedding and a good reception - notwithstanding being mainly outdoors in the wind, rain and sleet. The couple were very much at ease, and that's all that mattered.
On Sunday 23 November we were again at the markets and tragedy struck when we got home. I went to park the truck and ran over Georgie Girl, our much loved Welsh Springer spaniel, she died instantly. She was old and deaf, didn't hear the truck, and I didn't see her. She is buried in the orchard of the farm she loved so much. Some of you will remember her from visits to the farm and open days, she was my shadow and best mate - I miss her a lot.
Monday I was interviewed by Genevieve Jacobs of ABC 666 about Slow Food and Terra Madre. It seemed to go well, at least my mum thought so. Anyway I have suggested to Genevieve that a regular feature discussing local good clean and fair food from a producers and processors perspective might be good. I don't believe this idea was totally dismissed, so we shall see. On Monday I also turned 50 and now claim to be halfway there, wherever there is.
Tuesday more Wessex Saddleback pigs joined the food chain, and for those who ordered pork packs it will be available this coming Sunday 7 December.
Wednesday the Canberra Times did a photo shoot on the farm for a Food and Wine magazine article. This was followed by a studio photo shoot with 6 other local producers on Friday. All will be revealed on the 10th of December in a special edition, and I hope they say nice things about us.
Something happened on Thursday, but I can't remember what.
On Friday we had Elizabeth's work do. We spend all year as social recluses and then for a month we need to be three places at once. Anyway it was an enjoyable affair with good wine and food (Ginger Catering), live music and good company.
Saturday night we had a small convivial gathering of 26 farmers, chefs and foodies (all friends), complete with live music to mark the passing of something inconsequential. Needless to say we enjoyed three different and very special rare breed meats (a unique world event, but we've done it twice before), great wines, fantastic salads, home made breads, sorbets and cakes. A good night with all in attendance: intelligent, relaxed, 'comfortable in their skins' and good looking - the writer excepted. Thanks all, it was a lovely night.
Sunday, after little sleep, we were back at the farmers markets where we sold out of all beef except mince and sausages. We had a good day with many buying what I am being told is the regions best pork mince. Some of our wonderful clients (co-producers) will combine the pork with our beef mince to make real lasagne and proper bolognese. Others use it in stir fried dishes, pork balls and Asian soups.
By the way, we had 96mm of rain for November. This has almost made up for October's poor showing. Grass is growing, animals are happy, life is generally good - but I really miss Georgie Girl.
1 December 2008
Below is the article I was asked to write for Slow Food newsletter for Australia and New Zealand. I post it here in case I missed the editorial cut off date - no excuses just a lot on at the moment.
Reflections on Terra Madre
It came as a bit of shock when I was nominated to go to Terra Madre, my wife Elizabeth and I are members and supporters of Slow Food but this was an unexpected privilege and honour. We had read Carlo Petrinis works, our philosophies of life were very much aligned, and we were already practising the type of farming the Slow Food movement supports good, clean and fair. For us good, clean and fair translated to: rare breeds for meat and eggs, biodynamics, and local farmers markets.
I was asked: why go to Terra Madre, why make the trip? Initially that question threw me off guard as I thought it would be universally desirable to attend such an event. The opportunity to hear leading global thinkers and activists such as: Carlo Petrini, Vandana Shiva, and Alice Waters, to meet like minded producers, processors and chefs, to enjoy the convivial nature of the event, and to sample the worlds best foods at Salone del Gusto, was simply and event not to be missed. Funding the trip after 6 years of drought was secondary, and I managed to get there with the great help of our local convivium, Canberra 4Cs - www.slowfoodcanberra.com
On reflection I really went to Turin to learn - learn all I could from other producers, from processors, from cooks and chefs and from co-producers. What I didnt realize was that I also had something to contribute, and was asked to address one of the Earth workshops, another unexpected honour.
Being a farmer and mostly working alone, the convivial nature of the event and the connection with like-minded people was a real pleasure. Everyone I met was a delight and firm friendships were formed quickly, but I must single out the Italians as perhaps the most hospitable people on the planet.
About 20 Australians were accommodated at a convents spiritual retreat. The significance of this placement was not lost on us Aussies and we happily enjoyed many of the local spirits. Several nights we returned from the Salone del Gusto with some of the worlds best offerings that were then consumed with passion - special mention must go to the wood fired white truffle pizza!
If I had one goal when I went to Terra Madre, it was to investigate the potential of value-adding projects for our Wessex Saddleback pork. Italy was definitely the best place to start my investigations of prosciutto, ham, salami and other small goods. I sampled more processed meat products in 3 days in Turin than I have in a lifetime and came home a few kilos heavier too. As a result I have a standing invitation to visit a 4th generation Swiss German small goods maker and learn what I can. The surprise is that Thomas Beuke is from Tasmania, and his Wallaby salami amongst the best I have tasted - www.blackforestsmallgoods.com.au
What has Terra Madre inspired me to do? Value-add to our already special produce. Elizabeth and I are now planning a small commercial kitchen where we will prepare hams ready for extended air-drying and maturing. The value adding I saw at Terra Madre was inspiring and will help a small farm like ours remain viable.
Regrets? The only regrets I have are that Elizabeth could not come with me, and that Terra Madre the event was over so soon but theres always next time. All in all I consider my time at Terra Madre to have been an immense success. I enjoyed the city, the food, the people, the wine, the music, and I learnt a great deal what else is there to life?
Michael Croft
20 November 2008
We've had some rain! 11mm, to be precise, over two days and nice soaking wet stuff. So whilst October netted a mere 31mm, which is not so good for spring, November is looking OK with 44mm so far and more predicted. Mind you I was speaking to Michael Plane from Gundaroo yestreday, and at that stage we had received 7mm and he had 42mm and counting! I confess to experiencing rain envy whilst also being very pleased for Allsun Farm.
What was interesting is the discussion we had of "field capacity", which the ability of the soils to absorb rainfall before runoff occurs. Allsun Farm absorbed all 42mm and field capacity was not reached. Our field capacity varies dramatically from 5mm in the areas with almost no topsoil to well over 50mm is the best areas where I have yet to see field capacity reached. With the exception of the sacrifice paddocks closest to the house, our field capacity has improved in all areas since we took on the farm. This can be directly corrolated to the increase in soil: depth, friability, flora and fauna. Good soils hold more water when it falls, and good soils come from good management systems and their implementation.
Well it appears that I am about to be a legend in my own lunchbox. My trip to Italy and Terra Madre has had unforeseen consequences, and I am being interviewed almost daily by food writers and journalists. Daily is perhaps a bit of an exaggeration, but it seems that way when you are trying to run a farm at the same time, but 5 interviews in 4 days is a lot. To be honest I am very happy to share the Slow Food experience and impressions of Terra Madre, but nervous too as the farm doesn't need the publicity and we can't keep up with demand for our produce as it is.
Speaking of which we almost out of beef. We are down to a few steak packs and creative packs, some mince, and sausages. Please note there will be no more Belted Galloway Beef available from us for several months - February or March 2009. Sorry folks, but we frequently warn of this happening. It's bit of a dilemma for us as all consumers and even some co-producers expect us to be able to supply all year round and in any quantity. If we can't supply, the supermarket mentality of constant and never ending availability may win out, and we lose some of our support base. That and we really want to supply you with good clean and fair food, and feel we are letting you down when we can't. So apologises to all, but the farm is a closed system which has natural limits of production, which we can't exceed without violating sustainability.
Another issue many may not be aware of: we are a breeding operation, that is we breed animals and take them all the way through 'til they end up on a plate. So we are buying a new bull to introduce new genetics into the herd. Yabba is a great carcase bull and has produced carcase competition winners. He is also an ex show champion as well, so not only does he aid in the production of good calves, he has a great predigree as well - he walks his talk, something many show bulls don't and often can't. So the issue is this, we buy the bull now and it is 3 years before the proof is in the eating. A substantial investment in a new Belted Galloway bull with no financial return for 3 years. There are not many small business that invest with no prospect of a return, and increasing costs, in the medium term - this is not a whinge, just life on the farm.
I have been asked at various field and open days what is going to happen to our current bull Yogi. Yogi has done his job and passed on his genes which will live on in progeny. With sadness we are unable to find another breeder who is in need of his genetic material. So with great respect he will be humanely killed and then honoured in the eating. Bull mince and sausages have the best flavour after an extended aging process, and will be available in late February 2009 to the discerning.
16 November 2008
First the good news: pork mince and sausages will be back on the menu in two weeks time. Second the neutral news: the pork packs should be available at the same time but possibly the first weekend in December. Third the bad news: a rather large and pregnant cow trod on Elizabeth's foot yesterday whilst we were checking the herd in the yards. So now Elizabeth and I hobble around together. Elizabeth's foot will be x-rayed tomorrow, and it's looking like my knee will need an op. So apologises to all our wonderful co-producers for the delays in supplying our meats. The pork is ready to go, but we have been incapacitated and everything is taking twice a long as usual - so we are supplying slow food, really really slowly.
More good news though, thanks to Pat and Lyn we now have an another strong bee hive on farm. Pat and Lyn are the regions foremost "swarm chasers" (and nice people too) and one of the bigger bee swarms they caught is now with us. Nice bees, not too agro (means they have a placid queen), and they are busy collecting lots of honey. Our E.mannifera and the Yellow Boxes are flowering, so the bees are currently storing some great honey which we will soon extract. So in about a month's time (for Xmas) our honey will again be available.
More good news: We had added to our Whitshire sheep herd by buying a small flock dispersal, and our small flock has nearly doubled in size. The ewes orginally came from a biodynamically farmed stud at Sutton, so they are clean and used to paddock rotations etcetera. The ewes also came with lambs at foot which means more lamb in Jan/Feb.
And yet more good news, when Elizabeth had her foot stomped on we were also assessing our future Belted Galloway beef supply, and it appears we will have a little more beef before Xmas. There are only a very few steers that are ready, and this will definitely be our last beef for many months as the rest of the steers have a way to go. However to fill the gap, after this beef is sold, there will be a more plentiful supply of our Wessex Saddleback pork :-)
7 November 2008
What an eventful week it's been. Internationally things have changed for the better with the election of Barak Obama as President of the USA. We eagerly await his 'walking the talk', and believe good things are coming if and when he does.
More locally, last Saturday I attended part of the Allsun Farm open garden scheme weekend at Gundaroo. It was a great day and they sold some 300 of our cooked sausages, in Silo bakery rolls, with Allsun salad and salsa. About a dozen other exhibitors were there, and the vibe was great. Michael and Joyce are doing wonderful things on the vegie farm and the Allsun Farm wesite is here.
On Sunday at the farmers markets we were hit with an unexpected increase in demand for our meats. We sold out of all but a few sausages and took a large number of orders for our packs. The beef we have on hand will be the last we will be able to offer this year, and it is selling faster than usual. At the rate we are going it will be all sold in two weeks time and I thought it would see us through to Christmas. I'll put the steers through the yards again in a week or so, but I am fairly sure none will be ready or up to our standards yet.
On Tuesday (Melbourne Cup day) we had a family and friends day on the farm. Close to 100 people registered and attended and the feedback so far has all been positive. I did my usual rants about rare breeds, organics and sustainability, as we visited some pigs, sheep and cattle. All in all a good day showing people a little of how and what we farm. I hope the many children enjoyed the day, all I know is that they enjoyed 150 sausages! The downside of the day was I put my knee out whilst feeding the sheep. This has made running the farm most difficult and painfully slow.
This Sunday, as a director, I am meant to be at the AGM of the Rare Breeds Trust of Australia in Melbourne. Due to my knee I will be unable to attend so we are planning a phone hook up. The Trust are doing great work in encouraging and supporting the conservation of farm animal genetics. Internationally farm genetic diversity losses have slowed to one breed a month, which is great news as it was 5 breeds a month some ten years ago. But still the war is far from won as genetic diversity within breeds is shrinking dramatically. Genetic diversity = species resilience = food security, and GMO's are the reverse of this. GMO's = genetic monoculture = species vulnerability = food insecurity. The pursuit of hybrid vigor is little better as it only lasts a generation or two. It really is that simple!
Now for those who have been thinking that all these activities we attend are about self promotion and selling more meat. Sorry but you are very wrong. We have reached the limits of the farm's productive capability, it is a fixed entity with finite boundaries. We cannot produce anymore beef, lamb or pork without the importation of large amounts of inputs (fodder) onto the farm. As this is not a sustainable practise we will not do it, despite the economic incentive. Yes it would be economically advantageous but it would not be right, as we would be externalizing various costs of production to the environment. So whilst we welcome enquiries for our 'good, clean and fair foods', please bear in mind that we may not be able to supply you immediately and there may be a wait, sometimes months, before we can supply. Fortunately we have many wonderful co-producers that are prepared to wait for our produce.
Anyway from now on I will increasingly concentrate on promoting small scale sustainable farming and encouraging others to farm in such a way. I believe farming should be focusing on the triple bottom line of environmental, social and economic outcomes, and in so doing producing good, clean and fair foods - slow food - food on a human and not an industrial scale. There's nothing like nailing one's colours to the mast, and wearing your heart on your sleeve!
Whilst we're discussing gratutitous self-promotion, I'll be speaking at a "Food Matters" workshop on Saturday 22 November. There are a few of the strickly limited places left and for those of you who are interested in the link between food and our carbon footprint. It's a practical workshop that is designed to empower you to take positive action. For details/bookings contact the Canberra Environment and Sustainability Resource Centre on 6248 0885 or
email fiona.tito-wheatland@enduringsolutions.com.au
3 November 2008
I promised I would attempt to distil the Climate Change and Food Security Manifesto which was introduced at Terra Madre in Italy. Luckily there was an executive summary which I have posted below. The full document and text can be found at Future Food.
It has been very encouraging to find that people the world over are thinking along similar lines, and that my philosophy on farming and community is shared by many others.
Principles for Food Security in times of Climate Change
This manifesto is an agro-ecological response to challenge posed by climate change for ensuring the future of food security by mitigation, adaptation and equity, based on the following principles:
1. Industrial Globalised Agriculture Contributes to and is Vulnerable to Climate Change.
Industrial agriculture, based on chemicals, fossil fuels, and globalized food systems enabled by energy intensive and long distant transport, has a negative impact on climate. Industrial agriculture presently contributes at least one quarter of current greenhouse gas emissions. This dominant system, as promoted by the current economic paradigm, has accelerated climate instability and increased food insecurity. It also increases vulnerability because it is based on uniformity and monocultures, on centralized distribution systems, and dependence on intensive energy and water inputs.2. Ecological and Organic Farming Contributes to Mitigation and Adaptation to Climate Change.
Agriculture is the only human activity based on photosynthesis and has a potential to be fully renewable. Ecological and organic farming mitigates climate change by reducing greenhouse gas emissions and increasing carbonsequestration in plants and soil. Multifunctional, biodiverse farming systems and localised diversified food systems are essential for ensuring food security in an era of climate change. A rapid global transition to such systems is an imperative both for mitigating climate change and for ensuring food security.3. Transition to Local, Sustainable Food Systems Benefit the Environment and Public Health.
Economic globalization has led to a nutritional transition away from local, diverse, seasonal diets to industrially processed synthetic foods, which are leading to new food-related diseases and ill health. Economic globalization policies increase the burden on the environment through resource and energy intensive consumption patterns. Localization, diversification, and seasonality are important for improving human well being, health, and nutrition. A transition to local systems throughout the world will reduce food miles by shortening transport chains and reduce the energy backpack of food in terms of packaging, refrigeration, storage, and processing.4. Biodiversity Reduces Vulnerability and Increases Resilience.
Biodiversity is the basis of food security. Biodiversity is also the basis for ecological and organic farming because it provides alternatives to fossil fuel and chemical inputs. It also increases resilience to climate change by returning morecarbon to the soil, improving the soils ability to withstand drought, floods, and erosion. Biodiversity is the only natural insurance for societys future adaptation and evolution. Increasing genetic and cultural diversity in food systems, and
maintaining this biodiversity in the commons are vital adaptation strategies responding to challenges of climate change.
5. Genetically Modified Seeds and Breeds: a False Solution and Dangerous Diversion
Genetically modified crops are a false solution and a dangerous diversion from our task of mitigating climate change, running counter to providing sustainable food and energy and to conserving resources. GM food, fibre, and fuels aggravate all the shortcomings of industrial monoculture crops: more genetic uniformity and hence less resilience to biotic and abiotic stresses; and more demand for water and pesticides. They have been created on the basis of a discredited and obsolete genetic determinist paradigm and thus carry extra risks to health and the environment. They also lead to patent monopolies which not only undermine farmers rights but also impede the dedication of research on biodiversity for adaptation to climate change.6. Industrial Agrofuels: A False Solution and New Threat to Food Security
Food is the most basic of human needs and sustainable agriculture must be based on food first policies. Industrial agrofuels are non-sustainable and spread genetically modified organisms by stealth.Agrofuel plantations are aggravating the problem of climate change by destroying and replacing rain forests with soy, palm oil, and sugar cane plantations. This has led to an unparalleled land grab of indigenous and rural communities.
Industrial agrofuels are responsible for perverse subsidies to non-sustainable agriculture which threaten the food rights of billions of people. To make matters worse, food prices are increasing due to the rapid conversion from growing food crops to growing agrofuels.
Sustainable energy policies require decentralization combined with a general decrease in energy consumption, while maintaining food security as an overarching objective of food and agriculture systems.
7. Water Conservation is Central to Sustainable Agriculture
Industrial agriculture has led to intensive water use and increased water pollution, reducing availability of fresh water. Drought and water scarcity in large parts of the world will increase due to changes in climate. Reducing intensive water use in agriculture is a vital adaptation strategy. Ecological and organic farming reduces demands for intensive irrigation while enhancing soil capacity for retention of water while improving water quality.8. Knowledge Transition for Climate Adaptation
Climate change is the ultimate test for our collective intelligence as humanity. Industrial agriculture has destroyed vital aspects of knowledge of local ecosystems and agricultural technologies which are necessary for making a transition to a post-industrial, fossil fuel-free food system. The diversity of cultures and of knowledge systems required for adapting to climate change need recognition and enhancing through public policy and investment. A new partnership between science and traditional knowledge will strengthen both knowledge systems and enhance our capacity to respond.9. Economic Transition Toward a Sustainable and Equitable Food Future
Current economic and trade regimes have played a major role in creating perverse incentives that increase carbon emissions, accelerating climate change. The growth paradigm based on limitless consumption and false economic indicators such as gross national product (GNP) are pushing countries and communities toward increasing vulnerability and instability. Trade rules and economic systems should support the principle of subsidiarity - that is favouring local economies and local food systems which reduce our carbon footprint while increasing democratic participation and the quality of life.I could not have said the above better myself !!!
30 October 2008
Where to start? I am just back from Italy and Slow Food's Terra Madre, jet lagged (it's 3 am) and slightly overwhelmed. All is well on the farm which was more than ably managed by Elizabeth in my absence - it's comforting to know I'm not really needed.
Terra Madre was amazing and the Italians are wonderful and generous hosts. Over 7,000 artisan food producers from almost every country on the planet descended on Turin Italy for the 4 day congress. I can't adequately describe the atmosphere - perhaps benevolent coordinated chaos? when 7,000 people meet to discuss food and agriculture in 8 different languages (simultaneous translations), you would expect problems, but all went extremely well and with a great vibe. Mind you it was probably a different matter behind the scenes for the organisers.
I was interviewed by several food writers and asked what was my overall impression, and what did I get out of Terra Madre. My answers were not that enlightened as I had just come from a wine tasting session at the Salone del Gusto. However, first impression was the 'we are not alone' feeling. I met so many small scale farmers from other countries facing similar issues, and we shared a common bond - if not culture or language. Second was we are doing it 'right'. Third was we are doing it very well, and are world class, good, clean and fair food producers. Fourth we have a lot to learn about food processing. Fifth I now aim to be Australia's best artisan cured meat producer in ten years! You have to aim high right?!
The fifth impression and statement is a motivating challenge to keep improving and innovating. Our raw meats are certainly as good, in some cases better, than the best of the European produce. However the Europeans run rings around us when it comes to the curing of meats, salamis, charcuterie, etcetera. Luckily I have standing invitations to visit some of the best artisan cured meat producers around the world to learn how they do it - not sure how I'll get there, but we'll figure that out latter. The trick will be to produce nitrate free preserved meats, in a traditional manner, that meet Australia's food safety laws.
Food traditions and diversity, and food safety laws seem mutually exclusive in Australia - we shall see.
At extremely short notice I was invited to speak at the one of the sessions at the conference (that Italian coordinated chaos thing) and spoke to some 500 people about quality meat production and the ethics of eating meat. Apparently I was thanked and acknowledged at another forum I was unable to attend, and quoted in two others . There was so much going on and I still haven't figured out how to be in two places at once. Anyway it appears that this humble website is read by more than some of my wonderful co-producers in Canberra, and that I have a very small but influential international readership. So I'll have to watch what I say here in future - perhaps not.
At Terra Madre we launched Slow Foods 'Manifesto on Climate Change and Food Security'. When I say we, it was Vandana Shiva who spoke brilliantly to the topic - apparently it's on U-tube and she is awesome! I will attempt to distil this powerful statement here in a day or so.
Most importantly, Slow Food has been invited to attend the next G8 meeting in 2009. To understand the significance of this, Australia was only invited to attend the G8 summit for the first time last year. So Slow Food has been recognised as a significant player on the world stage. This was announced somewhat controversially by the Italian foreign minister at the closing ceremony - some of the delegates see the G8 as part of the problem. More on this latter.
That's all for now. There will be another instalment in day or two when the jet lag abates.
15 October 2008
For those who have been waiting more or less patiently for our next farm visit day it will be Melbourne Cup Day. Melbourne Cup Day 11am (Tuesday 4th November) has been declared a "family holiday" in the ACT, so it will be the perfect day for a children's day on our farm. You will need to register so we can send you a mud map and cater for you and yours.
So bring the children (if you don't have any, borrow the neighbours), and visit the cows and calves, sheep and lambs, pigs and piglets, chooks and ducks, geese and peacocks! We will go for a short guided walk and return for a picnic bbq - we will provide sausages, bread and tomato sauce, you will need to bring everything else (drinks, cups, salads, chairs, champagne?). If you don't register you will not receive the directions or the simple conditions of a visit. Those who have registered previously don't need to do it again, and you will all be home in time to watch the race - if that's your thing.
The Slow Food Day raising funds for me to go to Terra Madre in Italy was a great success. About 50 people enjoyed: a Hampshire Downs lamb whole roasted and stuffed forequarter, two whole Belted Galloway rumps cooked as thick steaks on the bbq, four Wessex Saddleback pork roasts cooked and smoked in two Webber bbq's (best way to do it), many assorted salads and desserts, copious amounts of good wine and great company. In short a most convivial event that also raised half the airfare monies. So a big Thank You to the wonderful Slow Food people and organizers.
The first of the seasons calves arrived this morning, it always puts a spring in your step when new life arrives on the farm. Last night at dusk I sat for a few minutes amoungst the gambolling lambs. They were playing chasies which involved running and jumping up on to a large bale of hay, and pushing each other off. It was delightful to watch this "I'm the King of the castle" play, and I had a "I wouldn't be dead for quids" experience.
Incidentally our lambing percentage is at 110% and climbing, I think it will be close to 140% when the ewes have finished. And if you were wondering why our calving is so late (we would like to calve early spring - late August early September to take advantage of the spring growth), we are trying to bring all the cows back into synch. We purchased several small herds over the last few years and they calved whenever the owners could source a bull. Anyway we are almost there, and next year we should calve a month earlier.
My trip to Terra Madre is fast approaching and I am still rushing to get it all set up before I leave next Tuesday. There have been several trips to the abattoir with steers so that there will be nicely aged Belted Galloway beef to sell upon my return. I'm merging all the pigs into one large area for ease of management for Elizabeth. I still have to sort out their watering system and a self feeder, not to mention some fencing changes. The steers will need to moved to a bigger paddock with enough fresh feed for 10 days, the sheep will follow the cows into the house paddock, and there's still much else to be done.................
And last but not least, Christine Salins (food writer for various magazines and the Canberra Times) was at our Slow Food Terra Madre fundraising. Christine says I may quote her, "My children say yours is the best meat they have ever had." I can only guess the children of a foodie and food writer get to eat some pretty special foods at home.
7 October 2008
We have been doing some thinking and talking about how our small farm is operating as far as the triple bottom line is concerned - environmentally, economically and socially. Environmentally things are improving, and this is quantifiable in the soil biota. Economically there is light at the end of the establishment phase tunnel, and all the hard work is starting to pay off - mind you I don't think I'll calculate my hourly rate at this stage. But socially we have dug ourselves into a hole.
Our social limbo struck home this past long weekend; the girls were on school holidays, it was a beautiful weekend - it rained :-) and all our friends were off enjoying themselves and we had to work. Elizabeth did the GST whilst I fed animals and kept an eye on the lambing and calving, the entire family worked on the Sunday at the markets, Monday it was off to the abbatoir, and so on. In short we are not getting a break, and we are not able to get away, even for a few days, due to our 24/7/365 farming and business responsibilities. I am sure there are lot of small businesses in the same boat, but we are suffering burn out and looking for solutions. If you have any bright ideas, please let me know.
5 October 2008
Next Saturday the Slow Food peoples are running a fund-raising event on our farm, to help raise some monies to send me to Terra Madre. The will be lamb, pork and beef on the menu - all from our farm of course - at a long table convivial lunch. The price per person is $30 for Slow Food members, and $35 for non members. There will be plenty of our good meats on offer, and no one will go hungry. For more details and bookings, contact Slow Food Canberra.
We are almost out of our Belted Galloway beef until mid November. There are a few Slow Packs left, and we have made up a few creative packs for next Sunday the 12th of October, but that's it. We limited amounts of "the regions best mince", but plenty of sausages for the summer BBQ's.
The mid November Wessex Saddleback pork is selling fast - you have been warned :-)
For those interested, we finished up the month of September with 80mm of rain!! So far October has given us nearly 20mm, so things are improving.
29 September 2008
Lambs are appearing in rapid fire, mostly twins and triplets. So far so good, as all births have been unassisted. I'll be leaving the triplets with their mums, but keeping a close eye on the smallest of each just in case poddying is required. Briana, my youngest daughter, is desperate to poddy a lamb, but her dad is just plain mean!
Now I know I have said this repeatedly but............ we are running out of produce. The pork that will be ready for next Sunday's market is all sold. We are down to a few Slow packs and a few creative packs with the beef, and I think there is one 1/4 of a hogget left. Pork will be back on the menu in mid November, and we have already received quite a few orders. Our beef will again be on the summer BBQ in early November, but this will be the last of our beef for the year. Lamb as you would expect will not be available until January at the earliest, and in very limited numbers as we are in flock building mode.
In short we have almost reached the limits of our land's productive capabilities. So for those of you who believe in the mantra of "sustainable growth", I'm here to tell you it can be proved false. Sustainable growth in anything with fixed parameters or boundaries is physically impossible once carrying capacity is reached. The false god of economics is just that, false, and yet remains the mantra of economists and governments everywhere. Australia and our planet just happen to have fixed parameters and boundaries, something economists seem blissfully unaware of.
Slow Food'sTerra Madre is only 3 weeks away, and I am busting a gut to get the place set up and easy to run whilst I am away. I know Elizabeth will cope, but there are many things that need doing to leesen the work load, and she does work full time in town.
23 September 2008
42mm of beautiful drenching rain overnight! OK I admit I am obsessed with rain, but it does mean we will have a wonderful spring. The farm is looking better already with green pick almost every where.
The first of the much anticipated lambs has arrived! And yes it's very cute, waggling it's tail as it drinks. This means the others will drop soon and I look forward to the learning experiences they will undoubtedly provide.
Today, 10am at Sage restaurant Gorman House Braddon, there is an anti GMO food rally by chefs. Several of the Slow Food people's will be there flying the flag in support of our right to know what is in our food. It is outrageous that genetically modified substances will be increasingly in Australian 'foods', and yet there will be no labelling requirement for GM foods. We all have a right to know what is in our food, and this underhanded, almost covert, subversion of your right to know should be stopped.
Today I load more pigs for their terminal destination. They have had a longer than usual and happy free range life, but now will join the food chain. So pork will be back on the menu, not this, but next Sunday.
16 September 2008
More rain, with another 18mm overnight. I don't want to count chickens before they hatch, but we might get a spring this year.........................
15 September 2008
What a difference a few days makes. The daytime temperatures are up around the 20 mark, and we've just had 18.5mm of rain. So spring has sprung and grass growth is accelerating - still no lambs or calves, but they'll arrive soon!
Our Belted Galloway beef will be back on the menu this coming Sunday. Two thirds of it is pre-ordered, but this means there are some unallocated packs that we will be taking to the markets. So as usual - first in first served. Please be aware that we are fast approaching the time that all our beef will be sold by forward order. We have a few more steers coming on, and then a delay of a few months before more will be of suitable age and quality. We are reaching the limits of our production for this superb beef and, since our neighbours are not selling any of their land, we are running out of options to meet increasing demand.
There are a few sides of lamb that are still available, so email me if interested in this great tasting rare breed (Hampshire Down) lamb. Last time we sold it all and we missed out, but we got to taste some this time, and it really is very good.
Pork! This week I hope to load some of the larger grower pigs and take them to join the food chain. Unsolicited rave reviews from very satisfied clients keep coming about our Wessex Saddleback free range pork. That said, the pork is again all sold before it's available. There will be more in approximately 6 to 7 weeks time.
12 September 2008
No lambs or calves yet, I'm beginning to wonder about the abilities of out stud sires!
The days are of endless feeding as we await the spring growth to kick in. I know the watched pot never boils, but I can't help looking at the bulging sides, filling udders, and swelling vulva's of my sheep and cattle and wondering when they are going to lamb or calve. It is a different world for those of us 'on the land'.
1 September 2008
Well it's the first day of spring and we received 30mm of rain over the last two days :-) The August rainfall was looking pretty ordinary until this last lot appeared and took our total for the month to 61.5mm. With a bit of luck the predicted 'wet spring' will eventuate - we live in hope.
Three steers will join the food chain this morning as we loaded them in the welcome downpour yesterday afternoon. Elizabeth and I looked like drowned rats at the end of the loading and needed to change clothes and dry off. For those interested you should know that these steers are part pre-ordered and will sell fast. There are another 3 steers that are almost ready then a bit of a gap in production. We have plenty of younger growers coming on and I hope the spring growth brings them on to finish.
Now just in case any of you have romantic notions of the rural idyll, let me briefly recount our weekend 'days of rest'. Saturday night we finished working at 9pm having packed the lamb orders. At 6am Sunday we are up and running because it is our farmer's market day. Home for lunch at about 1pm, then feed the (other?) pigs, put all the steers through the yards (in pouring rain) and select 3 steers to join the food chain. Hook up the stock trailer and load the steers, again in the pouring rain (now with winds gusting to 65 kph), then set off to the abattoir. Unload steers into the 'chem free' pen, fill out paperwork and return home by 10pm. So another couple of 16 hour days of 'living the dream' - but I wouldn't swap this life for quids!
I frequently get emails asking "are you making a living from farming?". The short answer is yes! The long answer is that it has taken 6 years: for people from a non farming background, farming 'too small and area to make a living', in the worse extended drought in living memory, to get there. We are not your conventional farm or farmers, we are not 'get big or get out' commodity producers, we do not have an ounce of farming tradition blood in our veins - perhaps this is why we are busting the trends and being successful at small scale farming.
It's funny because I have talked to neighbours and they tell me that they can't do what we are doing (there is obviously a law against it) because they are 'fine wool producers' and have been for 5 generations. If you define yourself as such then that's it, you live an die as a commodity price taker. It's ironic that the descendants of risk taking innovative pioneers who were willing to turn their hands to anything, should voluntarily confine themselves to a commodity production prison. I'll bet the farm, that if you brought the great great grandfathers of these guys back to life, they would kick their descendants in the posterior and shout - change the way you are doing things!
23 August 2008
More Wessex Saddleback pigs arrive today. These are the last of the organic grower pigs I purchased from Don Moffat on the South Coast of NSW. The boar, and sow with piglets, arrives next Thursday and that will be our full compliment. It's scary to think that once these pigs are registered, we are the custodians of nearly 10% of the world's genetic material for Wessex Saddleback pigs.
The good news is that I am regularly being contacted by small scale farmers interested in the Wessex. Several of whom are interested in breeding and sharing genetics. That and the fact that I can't, or more correctly the pigs can't, keep up with demand for this outstanding pork.
Now, to all parents who wish to provide their children with a secure furure. Well over half of all Australian farmers are over 50 (I am in the "young" group at 49!). Farmers are in the same boat as academics and priests, it seems we are literally dying out. But the solution is obvious, if you steer your children to become farming priestesses with PhDs, their future employment will be assured and the professions saved.
18 August 2008
At the Sunday farmers market we took 3 full freezers of Wessex Saddleback pork and some Belted Galloway beef, and all we bought home were a few lonely sausages. Elizabeth and I were run off our feet and the morning made a mockery of the 'Slow Food' T-shirt I was wearing as I ran between the freezers trying to keep up.
The balance of the Wessex Saddleback pork orders will be at the markets this coming Sunday, and a some of our Beltie beef orders as well. I think there will be a few unallocated Beltie beef packs available, but I won't know until I've packed the orders.
I saw the Hampshire lamb and hogget aging nicely in the coolroom last friday, and it does look good. I am fairly sure there is still some available for those interested in pasture finished, rare breed, real taste, aged lamb and hogget.
The Fireside Festival presentation went well, inspite of what went on behind the scenes! We served some 36+ people with demonstration cooked lamb, beef and pork, matched to some wonderful wines from Mount Majura Vineyard. Kim De Poorter shone as the professional star of the day, and he missed his calling as a TV celeb chef!
What the public didn't see was the panic the days before when the refridgerated van transporting our pork to the butcher broke down. The pork was then returned to the abattoir coolrooms. At the last minute a replacement refridgerated truck was found and our pork arrived at the butchers at 3pm. At 4pm I arrived and picked up the already cut up pork and pork fat (thanks Darren) and race it to Kim at the commercial kitchen by 5pm. That evening Kim renders the fat and prepares the pork and it's at the Fireside Festival the next day as the take home organic, free range, wessex saddleback pork terrine in tubs.
I worked hard to supply a lot of aged Belted Galloway beef for the event and Kim's Belgian steak tartare was divine. So far the event is going well with Kim showing all how to make a real mayonaise - even if it splits. Kim then shines again with his double braised Hampshire down lamb on a very rich creamed potato bed. Again so far so good, and we have started cooking, on borrowed BBQ's, about a dozen Belted Galloway 2 inch thick rib eye steaks on the bone. Nicely cooked and seasoned and allowed to rest. Meanwhile the lamb session is going well but taking a little longer than planned, so Kim's neighbours expensive hooded BBQ wedding present is put on low to keep the resting meat from going cold. About 20 minutes later we emerge to find the BBQ self destructing and in melt down mode. We lost half the rib eyes (the others were in another borrowed BBQ) and a very expensive BBQ. We have no idea what happened, but it was windy and a tame magpie was hanging around??
Anyway our guests were unaware of the disaster that occured, and the show went on - albeit with a little less meat. And to those few that asked for the meat 'well done', I hope you enjoyed it because it was all meant to be rare to medium rare!
So the day ran at a big financial loss for Mountain Creek Farm and Kim, which is OK I suppose as we were never going to make money from the event, but the incineration did take some of the gloss off what was otherwise a convivial day.
And a very big THANK YOU to the Canberra Slow Food peoples who worked tirelessly behind the scenes washing dishes and making all go so smoothly - you are fantastic!
8 August 2008
This Sunday, for the first time in ages, we will have some unalloacted beef packs including the much sought after '2-up'. The 2-up is our sample pack and has: two thick and prime Porterhouse or Scotch fillet steaks, a 500 - 600 gram bag supreme mince, a bag of 6 of our thick plain and a bag of 6 tomato, onion and garlic flavoured Belted Galloway beef sausages, and all for only $25.
Be warned, do not buy this great value pack, it will leave you wanting more, and please note the 2-up pack can no longer be ordered, it is available on a first in, first served basis only.
The Wessex Saddleback pork is looking great and will be ready for pick up at the Southside farmers' markets, Sunday August 17.
6 August 2008
So far this month we have had 22mm of rain and when added to July's total of 70mm, it's looks like we might get a decent spring. The ground moisture is good, the ground cover reasonable, the stock numbers are down (not counting the roos), so fingers crossed. To make good use of this spring flush, I anticipate lambs and calves will start arriving any minute.
Well I didn't make it to the EPIC markets last Saturday. I ended up delivering the forward ordered beef to our wonderful northside clients. This 'market problem' has made me realise that I can't do it all, and I will cease going to the farmer's market at EPIC. The EPIC market was too good for business, and we simply can't grow enough for both markets. Anyway I apologise to the 'northsiders' but it is not far to come to the Southside markets on a Sunday. It's a more social market, and you would get to meet my lovely family. For the northsiders that have forward ordered pork and beef, I will be in touch to make arrangements.
I took our porkers to the abattoir on monday and all went smoothly. This means pork is back on the menu for 17 August - I think it's all sold. These were the best pigs to join the food chain yet: glossy coats, good fat cover, a picture of health. I will need to rush some of this pork to French chef extraordiaire Kim De Poorter, so he can make some more fabulous pork rillette for the Fireside Festival.
Speaking of which, I believe our Fireside Festival event is booked out - I only know this because several friends and co-producers have told me they missed out on tickets. This not surprising as it is amazing value at $35. It's meant to be a 'tasting', but I would recommend not having lunch beforehand. I have supplied enough prime beef and lamb to feed an army, and the pork is simply devine. I look forward to seeing some of you there.
28 July 2008
Our beef (and I) will be at the EPIC farmers' market again this coming Saturday 2nd August, so those that have forward ordered may collect their meat. There will be some unallocted packs for the lucky few, but once these are gone there will be no more beef for several months.
It was a loverly day at the old time Slow Food day at Calthorpe's House on Mugga Way. Hertitage receipes, heritage kitchen and appliances, and heritage peoples (well some of us were under 50 - just), enjoyed a convivial afternoon. I know this'll sound trite but, "you should have been there". For those of you that haven't discovered the magnificent Slow Food Movement, click here for the Canberra Convivium.
23 July 2008
Exciting news! I have been nominated and accepted as Slow Food Canberra's inaugural delegate to Terra Madre in Turin, Italy. This is a big honor and I am very excited by it all. The event in October this year draws some 5,000 producers from around the world; details can be found at http://www.terramadre.info/ . All the transfers, accomodation and meals are funded by Slow Food International, all we need to do is find the airfare monies. As we enter our sixth or seventh year of drought (I've lost count) I know this trip is not in our budget, but if life were just about money we wouldn't be farming, and this is just too good to miss. I'll have to sequester more carbon to offset my flight emissions too.
As if Terra Madre were not enough http://www.salonedelgusto.com/ is foodies Nirvana and held at the same time. Close to 200,000 gastronomes will visit the 'salone del gusto' this year and sample good, clean and fair foods from 130 countries. There is a huge educational component too. Anyway, my diet starts now, and ends when I land in Italy!!
More news. I was interviewed by The Canberra Times yesterday as they try to make sense of organic agricultures growth rates and drought tolerance. It remains to be seen if the reporter got his head around the issues, but suffice to say that I took a swipe at 'food miles' and 'industrial organic'. My views on organic certification are found at /Organic.html and essentially my beef (play on word intended) is that you cannot certify food integrity and trust.
Yet more news. Christine Salins of http://www.foodwinetravel.com.au/ also interviewed me yesterday for a fireside festival write up. Hopefully she will say nice things about us, and to ensure she does, I plan to bribe her with some of the regions best rare breed meats ;-)
21 July 2008
We had 31mm of rain yesterday, but who's counting?!
There will be a delay with the pork. Unfortunately I am keeping my butcher too busy with butchering our beef, and the pork won't be ready until the weekend 16/17 of August. I am truly sorry for the delay, and Darren (our butcher) and Megan (his apprentice) are working as hard as they can. The pork will be worth the wait.
16 July 2008
I am being forced to think about making changes to the way we do things at Mountain Creek Farm. Our produce is increasingly selling out by forward order and, to be honest, I'm not sure what to do about it. In essence our problem is this: we produce a limited amount of quality produce, and have a growing list of dedicated 'co-producers' (aka clients). Yes I know, all businesses should have such problems! Anyway burnout is a problem too, as I attempt to do both farmers markets, run the farm, be a volunteer on several boards, and see my family sometimes. So it maybe that I start restricting my market visits to once a fortnight, at least this way I'll get every second weekend to catch up on those jobs that are on the back burner. That said, I won't be at the EPIC markets this Saturday as I have no produce to take and sell.
New pigs have started to arrive on farm as we race to get fencing and facilities ready. I purchased a small herd of Wessex Saddlebacks from the South Coast, and this has almost doubled our numbers. These are organic pigs and used to roam a Pecan orchard. Mind you one sow looks like she needs a good feed, our old pigs seem positively obese when seen alongside. Anyway this means more pork in the fulness of time as we purchased 18 young growers, two sows and an unrelated boar. The 'pig palace' will soon be filled with the sounds of happy pigs.
1 July 2008
We continue to get rave reviews for our beef from our co-producers (clients). It's really heartening to know that people can actually taste the difference and appreciate what we are doing. That said, we only have a limited range of beef available for another 4 weeks, but our last lamb for the year will keep those lucky enough to have ordered happy. We will actually get to enjoy some of our lamb this time, as we missed out on the last lot.
Our not being at the EPIC markets for a couple of weeks was actually a good thing in a way. Some of our co-producers had purchased from the competition in the meantime, but came back and told us our produce was better :-)
Eggs - we've had a complaint! We run roosters with our chooks so some of the eggs will be fertile - as is natural and as it should be. So, if you don't like the red spot that will appear in some fertille eggs - please don't buy them. We also collect the fertile eggs, put them under a 'broody', and this is how we get chicks that eventually become new layers. We are becoming a closed loop farm by not buying in replacement animals and breeding our own instead.
It's raining again!!! 8mm last night and at least another 6mm this morning - this is exciting stuff folks! We received 52mm last month which was a bit below average, but the soil moisture levels are slowly building. Anyway, if this continues we should have moisture reserves for some decent spring growth.
© 2007, 2008 by Michael Croft and Mountain Creek Farm, All rights reserved.

